Double cap rivets are the quickest and strongest way to join two or more layers of leather where stitching alone is not enough: at the base of handles, on strap anchors, at pocket corners and around rings. This guide is for leatherworkers, small bag brands and ateliers – jeans are a separate topic. We cover the types of rivet, how to choose post length for your leather thickness, which tools you need and how to set a rivet so it neither spins nor marks the leather.
Types of rivets for leather
Double cap rivet
Two parts: a post with a cap on one end and a second cap for the other side. The parts press together and the post spreads inside the opposite cap. It looks finished on both sides, which makes it the standard for handles, straps and leads where front and back are both visible.
Single cap rivet
A decorative cap at the front and a flat base at the back. Used where the reverse is hidden – inside the bag or under a lining. Cheaper and lower-profile.
Copper burr rivet
A solid copper nail and a washer (burr) pressed on from behind; the excess is trimmed and the end is peened over with a hammer. The strongest option – for harness, tool belts and heavy bags – but slower and more skilled work.
Decorative rivet
Small rivets from 5 to 13 mm that reinforce corners and add an industrial look. They often do both jobs at once, function and branding.
What post length you need
This is the most common mistake. The rule is simple: the post should be about 1–2 mm longer than the total thickness of the layers. Shorter, and the cap will not lock; much longer, and the post bends and the rivet wobbles.
Leather thickness is often given in ounces: 1 oz ≈ 0.4 mm (1/64 inch). So 4–5 oz leather is roughly 1.6–2 mm.
| Total thickness of layers | Example | Recommended post length |
|---|---|---|
| up to 3 mm | two thin leathers for a wallet or key fob | about 4–5 mm |
| 3–5 mm | handle made of doubled 2 mm leather | about 6 mm |
| 5–7 mm | strap with stiffener, or leather plus webbing | about 8 mm |
| 7–10 mm | triple layers, lined belt | 10–12 mm |
Measure with calipers while squeezing the layers slightly – the way the rivet will clamp them.
Cap diameter
- 6–7 mm – wallets, small straps, details;
- 8–10 mm – bag handles and shoulder straps, the most versatile size;
- 12–13 mm – heavy bags, belts, a visible decorative accent.
The cap should be at least 2–3 mm wider than the hole so it cannot pull through the leather under load.
Tools
- A hole punch matching the post diameter – the hole should be snug, with no play.
- A concave anvil with a dome-shaped recess that supports the domed cap underneath without flattening it.
- A setter with a concave tip sized to the cap.
- A rubber, polyurethane or steel mallet of around 300–500 g.
- For batches: a hand or foot press with interchangeable dies – faster and more consistent.
Setting step by step
- Mark the position at least 5–6 mm from the edge of the leather so it will not tear out.
- Punch all the layers at once, stacked exactly as they will be riveted.
- Push the post up from underneath and check the protrusion: 1–2 mm above the top layer.
- Seat the bottom cap in the anvil recess.
- Press the top cap onto the post, place the setter on top and give one or two confident blows. Lots of light taps deform the cap.
- Check: the rivet does not spin, both caps sit flush and the leather is not puckered around them.
Common problems
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Rivet spins | hole too large or post too long | smaller punch or shorter post |
| Post bends sideways | post too long | shorter size, or add a layer |
| Cap flattened | flat anvil, struck without a setter | concave recess and matching setter |
| Leather tears at the rivet | rivet too close to the edge | move it in, add a reinforcement |
| Cap comes off in use | post too short, weak lock | longer post, firmer blow |
Different leathers, different behaviour
- Vegetable-tanned leather is dense and firm – it holds a rivet beautifully but takes more effort to punch. Ideal for handles and belts.
- Chrome-tanned and soft leathers stretch around the hole. Add a small reinforcing washer of leather or faux leather behind so the cap cannot pull through.
- Faux leather and fabric always need reinforcement (interfacing or a second layer), and keep rivets well away from seam lines.
Rivet or stitching?
A rivet takes concentrated load at a single point – ideal for a strap anchor or a handle base. Stitching spreads load along a line. The strongest construction on heavy bags combines both: stitching around the outline and one or two rivets at the highest-stress point.
Tip: match rivets, rings and eyelets in a single finish – gunmetal, gold or nickel. A mismatch in shade is obvious the moment it sits on leather.
Eyelet or rivet?
People often mix them up. An eyelet has a hole in the middle and reinforces an opening for a cord, lace or buckle prong. A rivet is solid and joins layers. A single bag often uses both: eyelets for drawstrings and rivets at the handles. Choose them in the same finish so the hardware reads as a set.
Rivets and eyelets from Bul-tex
Our rivets collection has decorative metal rivets from 5 to 13 mm in gunmetal and antique nickel, and the eyelets collection has metal eyelets with washers in several sizes and finishes for holes in leather and bags. Rings and D-rings for your bag are under rings. Find more bag hardware ideas in our accessories articles, and for logo rivets or a specific size, get in touch.
