Lining composition label: how to declare shell, lining and padding

A lining composition label for a garment with several layers is one of the labels most often written incorrectly. On a T-shirt it is simple – one fabric, one composition. A coat, though, has a wool shell, a viscose lining and sometimes polyester wadding; a down jacket has a nylon shell, a polyester lining and down fill; a dress may have lace on top and satin lining underneath. EU Regulation No 1007/2011 has specific rules for these multi-component products. This article explains them and shows what a correct label looks like for five typical garments.

The rules in brief

Article 11 of the regulation covers textile products made of several components with different fibre content:

  1. Each component with a different composition is declared separately. If the shell and lining are made of different fibres, the label states the composition of each.
  2. An exception for minor components. Declaring a component is not mandatory if it both (a) is not a main lining and (b) represents less than 30% of the product's total weight.
  3. One label for a set. Two or more textile products with the same fibre content that normally form a single unit may carry one label.

The crucial point: the main lining must always be declared, however little it weighs. The 30% rule does not exempt it.

What does not count as a component

Some elements are not taken into account at all when determining composition – non-textile parts, labels and badges, edgings and trimmings that are not an integral part of the product, textile-covered buttons and buckles, decorations, non-elastic ribbons, and elastic threads and bands added at specific, limited points. That is why the elastic in a cuff or a hanger tape does not change the garment's composition.

What the label looks like: five examples

1. A lined wool coat

Shell: 80% wool, 20% polyamide. Lining: 100% viscose. Fusible interlining in the fronts and collar.

Shell: 80% wool, 20% polyamide
Lining: 100% viscose

The interlining is not a main lining and weighs well under 30%, so declaring it is optional. If the coat has leather details or real horn, add the phrase "Contains non-textile parts of animal origin" (Article 12).

2. A down jacket

Shell: 100% polyamide. Lining: 100% polyester. Fill: down and feather.

Shell: 100% polyamide
Lining: 100% polyester
Fill: 90% down, 10% feather
Contains non-textile parts of animal origin

Down and feather are not textile fibres on the regulation's list. Their ratio is usually stated according to EN 12934, the standard for labelling feather and down, and their presence is in practice flagged with the non-textile animal-origin phrase. If the fill is polyester wadding, it is a textile component and is written as "Fill: 100% polyester".

3. A lined lace dress

Top layer: lace in 90% polyamide, 10% elastane. Lining: 95% polyester, 5% elastane.

Shell: 90% polyamide, 10% elastane
Lining: 95% polyester, 5% elastane

Here the lining is the main lining – it covers the whole body of the dress – and must be declared, even if it weighs less than the lace.

4. A parka with a detachable faux-fur collar

Shell: 65% polyester, 35% cotton. Lining: 100% polyester. Collar: faux fur in acrylic and modacrylic.

Shell: 65% polyester, 35% cotton
Lining: 100% polyester
Collar: 70% modacrylic, 30% acrylic

The collar weighs under 30% and is not a lining, so declaring it is not legally required. With faux fur, though, customers often ask whether it is real, so stating the composition is good practice. If the collar is real fur, you must add the non-textile animal-origin phrase.

5. A two-piece pyjama set

Top and bottoms in the same 100% cotton fabric.

100% cotton

The two pieces normally form a single unit and have the same composition, so one label is enough. If the top is cotton and the bottoms are viscose, each piece needs its own label, or the two compositions must be clearly separated.

How the percentages are calculated

Percentages for each component are calculated on the weight of that component, not the whole garment. A 100% viscose lining stays "100% viscose" even if it is only 15% of the coat's weight. The 30% rule is used only to decide whether a secondary component needs declaring at all. The 3% manufacturing tolerance applies to each component separately.

Layout and format

  • Use clear headings: "Shell", "Lining", "Fill", "Collar", "Sleeves" – in the language of the market.
  • Start with the shell, then the lining, then the fill – it reads most naturally.
  • List fibres within each component in descending order by weight.
  • Use only permitted names – "viscose", not "bamboo"; "elastane", not "Lycra".
  • Leave enough room: a multi-component composition needs a longer label. A satin or printed label of 30 × 60 mm or longer usually fits composition in two languages plus care symbols.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to declare the pocket lining?

Usually not. Pocket bags are not a main lining and weigh under 30%, so declaring them is optional – unless you choose to list them voluntarily.

What if the sleeve lining differs from the body lining?

The body lining is the main lining and must be declared. The sleeve lining can be listed separately ("Sleeve lining: 100% polyester") – good practice, especially if the difference is visible.

Where should the label go on a lined garment?

Most often in the left side seam of the lining, at an easy-to-reach height. The label must stay durable and legible for the life of the garment.

Composition labels from Bul-tex

Bul-tex manufactures woven, satin and printed labels, including care and composition labels with your own text for lined and padded garments. If you are preparing an autumn-winter collection, send us the composition of each component and we will suggest a size that fits everything legibly. More on labelling in our labels section.