Eyelet setting mistakes are very common, especially when you're using a hand tool or working with a new material. The eyelet spins, pulls out of the fabric, sets crooked or tears the edge of the hole. The good news is that almost every problem has a clear cause and a fix. Here are the most frequent mistakes, how to recognise them and what to do so they don't happen again.
1. The eyelet spins or is loose
Cause: the hole in the fabric is bigger than the barrel, the barrel is too long for thin material, or it hasn't been rolled over fully.
Fix:
- Punch the hole to the outside diameter of the barrel, not the outer diameter of the flange.
- On thin fabrics, add a layer of interfacing or fabric to build up thickness.
- If an eyelet is already loose, remove it carefully and set the next size up – it will cover the enlarged hole.
CAP RIVER Luxury Metal Rivets – 12.5 mm Gun Metal
Metal eyelets PE 0001 dome
Decorative rivets 2630 – 7 mm antique nickel2. The eyelet sets crooked
Cause: the hammer blow isn't square, the die isn't on a solid surface, or the tool doesn't match the eyelet size.
Fix:
- Work on a hard, flat surface – a steel block, stone slab or thick wooden board, not a springy table top.
- Hold the setter perfectly vertical and use a few firm, controlled strikes rather than one huge blow.
- Check that the die is marked with the same number (for example No.4) as the eyelet.
3. The barrel splits or goes jagged
Cause: the material is too thick for the barrel length, so the metal tears as it flares. Hitting too hard can do the same.
Fix: reduce the thickness where the eyelet goes (skive leather from the back) or choose a larger size with a taller barrel. Jagged edges on the back can cut through cords, so it's best to replace an eyelet like that.
4. The eyelet pulls out under tension
Cause: no washer, a weak edge, or an eyelet set too close to the hem.
Fix:
- Use eyelets with washers – they grip the fabric from both sides.
- Leave at least 1 cm (1.5–2 cm for large sizes) between the hole and the fabric edge.
- Reinforce the area with a double hem, tape or a leather patch.
5. Fraying around the eyelet
Cause: the hole was cut with scissors instead of a punch, or the weave is loose.
Fix: use a sharp hole punch of the right diameter. On loose weaves and knits, apply fray-stop liquid around the hole or fuse interfacing to the back before punching.
6. The eyelet scuffs or cuts the cord
Cause: the hole is too small for the cord, or the back has not rolled over evenly.
Fix: choose a size whose hole is at least 0.5–1 mm larger than the cord and check that the back is smooth. With natural-fibre cords, a larger hole noticeably reduces wear.
Quick pre-setting checklist
| Check | Correct |
|---|---|
| Hole in fabric | Same size as the barrel |
| Tool | Same number as the eyelet |
| Surface | Hard and flat |
| Distance to edge | At least 1 cm |
| Test | A trial eyelet on a scrap of the same material |
Frequently asked questions
How do I remove a badly set eyelet?
Use flush cutters to carefully snip the rolled-over part on the back, then push the eyelet out. Work slowly so you don't stretch the hole in the fabric.
Can I reuse the same hole?
Yes, if it isn't torn. If it has stretched, use the next eyelet size up, or reinforce the spot from behind and punch again.
Why does it work on my test piece but not on the garment?
Usually because of seams – there are more layers there, so the material is thicker. Avoid setting eyelets directly on top of a seam.
If you need new eyelets with washers or a larger size, browse our eyelets collection, and for professional setting see the machines in our accessories section.
