How to Shorten a Zipper – Coil, Metal and Separating, Step by Step

Learning how to shorten a zipper is easier than it looks, and it is often quicker than hunting for a zip in exactly the right length. With scissors, a needle, thread and a little patience you can turn a 20 cm zipper into a 16 cm one in a few minutes. The method depends on the type – coil (nylon), metal or separating – and on whether you shorten it from the top or the bottom.

What you need

• a tape measure and tailor's chalk or a fabric marker;
• sturdy scissors (not your fabric shears – the chain will blunt them);
• a needle and strong thread matching the tape colour;
• for metal zippers – small end-cutting pliers or zipper pliers;
• optionally, new metal top stops.

Grey spiral zippers #3 TAT TF831 – 15 cm non-separatingSpiral zippers dark blue non-detachable A012Blue No. 3 spiral zippers TAT TF547 – 11 to 15 cm closed-end

Closed-end coil zipper – shortening from the bottom

This is the easiest and most common method, ideal for skirts, dresses, trousers and cushions. The coil is nylon, so ordinary scissors cut through it.

1. Measure the length you need from the top stop down and mark the new bottom.
2. Close the zipper and, at the mark, hand-sew 8–10 tight stitches over both sides of the coil – this is your new bottom stop. A dense zigzag on the machine with stitch length set to 0 works too.
3. Cut the zipper 1.5–2 cm below the stitches.
4. If you like, seal the cut tape end carefully with a lighter or clear nail varnish to stop fraying.

The zipper is ready to sew in. Important: never cut before the new stop is in place, or the slider can run off the coil.

Shortening from the top

Shortening from the top is the way to go when the factory bottom end must stay intact (for example on separating zips) or when the zip will be sewn into a seam that is later finished with a waistband or facing.

1. Open the zipper and move the slider below the point where you will cut.
2. Cut off the excess, leaving about 1.5 cm of tape above the last tooth.
3. Make new top stops – a few hand stitches over each side of the coil, or metal stops crimped on with pliers.
4. Don't pull the slider up before the stops are in, or it will come off the chain.

How to shorten a metal zipper

Metal zippers, such as the No.5 ones used on jeans and bags, can't be cut through the teeth with scissors. Instead:

1. Mark the new length.
2. Use end-cutting pliers to remove the teeth above the mark, prising them off the tape one at a time. Clear about 1.5–2 cm of tape.
3. Remove the original top stops and refit them just above the last tooth, squeezing them closed with pliers. If they get damaged, use new ones.
4. Trim the tape, leaving about 1.5 cm above the stops.

Separating (open-end) zippers

A separating zipper, like the one on a jacket, can only be shortened from the top, because the box and pin at the bottom can't be rebuilt. Follow the top-shortening method – scissors for coil zips, pliers for metal or moulded plastic ones, removing teeth and fitting new stops.

Frequently asked questions

Can I shorten a zipper with scissors?

Yes, if it is a coil (nylon) or invisible zipper – they cut easily. Metal and moulded plastic zippers are shortened with pliers by removing teeth.

How much can a zipper be shortened?

Practically as much as you like, as long as the slider stays on the chain. If you need to remove more than half the length, it is usually better to buy a zipper closer to the right size.

How do I shorten an invisible zipper?

Invisible zips are shortened from the bottom, just like a regular coil zip: hand-sew a new stop and cut 2 cm below it.

If you'd rather skip this step, browse our zippers in lengths from 10 cm to over 50 cm and pick a matching thread for sewing them in.