How to attach a metal label to clothing depends first of all on what is on the back of the label: sew holes, prongs, rivet posts or a flat surface for adhesive. The second question is the product – a hoodie, jeans, a bag, a cap or a blanket each need a different level of strength and a different approach to washing. This article walks through the four main methods step by step, with their pros and cons, thread choice and reinforcement, plus the typical problems we see in workrooms.
Which method for which product
| Product | Best method | Alternative |
|---|---|---|
| Hoodies, T-shirts, knitwear | Sewing through holes | Prongs with backing plate |
| Jeans, workwear | Rivets | Sewing with heavy thread |
| Bags, belts, leather goods | Rivets | Prongs |
| Caps and hats | Prongs | Sewing before assembly |
| Blankets, home textiles | Sewing | — |
| Boxes, rigid accessories | Adhesive | — |
Metal tags E-677 Gun Metal 3 x 0.8 cm – For laser branding
Metal labels E-2222 Nickel 3 x 0.5 cm – With rounded edges, for laser branding
Metal labels E-2299 Gun Metal 2 x 0.5 cm – Delicate design for laser brandingMethod 1: Sewing through holes
This is the most popular way to fix metal labels on clothing. The label has two or four pre-punched holes, usually at the ends.
- Mark the position with chalk or a fade-away marker, and check symmetry against the seams.
- Reinforce thin and stretchy fabrics with a piece of fusible interfacing or a small fabric patch on the wrong side.
- Choose the thread: strong polyester or nylon thread, heavier than standard sewing thread. Match it to the fabric or to the label finish.
- Hand sew with 4–6 passes through each hole. On slim labels (say 2 × 0.4 cm), work carefully so the needle does not scratch the plating.
- Knot on the wrong side and secure the knot with a few small stitches.
Pros: no damage to the fabric, washes well, the label can be replaced. Cons: slow on large runs, the thread is visible.
Tip: where possible, attach the label before the garment is assembled. Working on a flat panel is far easier than on a finished sleeve or hood.
Method 2: Prongs
The label has two or four metal prongs on the back. They are pushed through the fabric and bent inwards on the wrong side, often over a metal backing plate.
- Mark the prong points and make small slits or holes with an awl – do not cut more than you need.
- Push the prongs through the fabric.
- Place the backing plate or a piece of stiff fabric on the wrong side.
- Fold the prongs inwards with flat-nosed pliers and press them down tightly.
Pros: fast, no visible thread, a clean face. Cons: bent prongs can snag the lining or skin, and on thin fabrics they can tear the cloth. Not suitable for unlined garments worn right against the body.
Method 3: Rivets
The label has holes or posts through which a rivet passes. The rivet is spread with a press or a setting tool and locks the label to the material. Rivets give the strongest hold, which is why they are used on jeans, leather goods, bags and belts.
- Punch a hole in the material with a hole punch matching the rivet post diameter.
- Push the post up through the material and the label.
- Place the cap on top.
- Press with a hand press, or strike with a hammer over the correct anvil, until the rivet sits tight.
Pros: maximum strength, handles heavy use and industrial washing. Cons: it is permanent – the label cannot come off without damaging the material – and you need tools. Our rivets collection includes decorative rivets in gunmetal and antique nickel.
Method 4: Adhesive
Industrial double-sided tape or glue is applied to the back of the label. It is fast and leaves nothing on the face, but it is not suitable for garments that get washed. Heat and water weaken the adhesive, and flexible fabric gradually peels the metal away. Use adhesive for boxes, rigid bags, lids, frames and accessories that are never washed, and only on clean, smooth, degreased surfaces.
What survives washing
- Rivets – the most durable, fine for industrial laundering.
- Sewing – excellent with polyester or nylon thread rather than cotton.
- Prongs – good, but check periodically that they have not opened.
- Adhesive – not suitable for washing.
Whatever the method, wash garments with metal labels inside out at 30–40 °C without chlorine bleach. That also protects the plating.
Troubleshooting
- The label tilts: sew through every hole, not just two; on a long label add a stitch in the middle if there is a hole.
- The fabric puckers around the label: do not pull the thread too tight, and use interfacing.
- The prongs scratch: cover them inside with a fabric patch or iron-on tape.
- The rivet spins: the hole is too big or the post is too short for the material thickness.
FAQ
Can I sew a metal label on with a sewing machine?
On some machines and labels with large holes it is possible by turning the handwheel and stitching in place, but the risk of hitting the metal and breaking the needle is high. For most labels, hand sewing is safer and quicker than it sounds.
What thread should I use?
Polyester or nylon thread heavier than standard sewing thread, such as denim or upholstery thread. Cotton thread wears and shrinks in the wash, and over time the label works loose.
Where is the best place for a metal label?
Usually on a seam, a pocket, the hem of a sweatshirt or a cuff. Avoid high-stretch areas and spots where the label will constantly rub against skin or a shoulder bag.
Do thin fabrics need backing?
Yes. Without backing, the weight of the metal drags the fabric and loops form around the holes. A piece of fusible interfacing on the wrong side solves it.
Metal labels and trims at Bul-tex
Our labels collection includes metal labels in nickel and gunmetal ready for laser branding, and our threads collection has strong sewing threads. For more practical advice on labels, visit our labels section. Bul-tex manufactures trims for brands and accepts orders made to your design, including a specific attachment type – contact us.
