Fabric covered buttons let the button be made from exactly the same material as the garment: same colour, same print, same sheen. That is why you see them on evening and bridal gowns, in upholstery, in vintage styling and on clothing where the button needs to disappear. They have limits too: they wear faster, not every fabric works, and in production they need a separate operation. This guide explains how they are made step by step, when they are the right choice, and when a tone-on-tone button in a natural material will serve you better.
A little history
Covering buttons with fabric is an old technique. In the Middle Ages and later, many buttons were made from a wooden or bone base wrapped in fabric or worked over with thread, and in 17th-century England a whole craft tradition of hand-worked thread buttons grew up. The two-part metal cover button that ateliers use today is an industrial solution that made the technique quick and affordable, which is why it is as popular with dressmakers as with upholsterers.
Polyester buttons PPB 0022
Mother-of-pearl buttons River 02
Dark grey corozo buttons CB5001 with 4 holesHow the button is built
A classic cover button has two parts:
- Top (shell). A domed metal or plastic blank, often with small teeth around the inner edge that grip the fabric.
- Back. A flat washer with a shank that presses into the top and locks the fabric between the two.
Sizes are often given as numbers that follow the old ligne system: size 30 is about 19 mm, size 36 about 23 mm, size 45 about 28 mm. The most common blanks range from about 1 to 4 cm.
How they are made: step by step
- Cut a fabric circle. Its diameter should be about twice the diameter of the blank. For a 19 mm button, a circle of around 38 mm. Most kits include a template.
- Position the motif. If the fabric is patterned, centre it; on a row of buttons they should all look alike.
- Place fabric and top. Face down in the rubber mould from the kit, with the top on it.
- Tuck the edge in. Fold the fabric towards the centre so the teeth catch it. On slippery fabrics, run a gathering stitch around the edge first and pull it tight.
- Press the back on. Use the plastic pusher from the kit to press the back until it clicks.
It can be done without a tool: gather the circle's edge with a hand stitch, draw it tight around the blank and press the back on with your thumbs against a hard surface. The result is less even, though.
Industrial covering
For production quantities, hand or pneumatic presses with a die for each size are used. The die shapes the fabric, presses the back and guarantees a consistent form. It is a separate operation with its own time and cost, which needs to go into your costing.
Which fabrics work
| Fabric | Suitable? | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton, poplin, linen | Yes | Ideal for beginners |
| Satin, crepe, silk | Yes, with care | Slippery; double up or interface thin ones |
| Suiting wool | Yes | Larger sizes only |
| Velvet, heavy wool, denim | Difficult | Too bulky at the edge for small blanks |
| Very sheer fabrics | Not on their own | The metal shows through; add a white underlayer |
The general rule: light to medium-weight fabrics work best.
Pros and cons
Pros
- A perfect match to the fabric in colour, print and texture.
- Affordable blanks and a simple technique for an atelier.
- The option of a contrast fabric as a decorative accent.
Cons
- Fabric at the edge wears with frequent use and washing.
- A metal blank can rust if the button stays damp for long.
- They need a shank and a longer buttonhole or a loop.
- In production, a separate operation and extra quality control.
Troubleshooting
- Metal shows through. Add a circle of white fusible interfacing or organza beneath the main fabric.
- Puckers on the dome. The circle is too big or the fabric too thick; reduce the circle or use a larger blank.
- The back will not click in. Too much fabric at the edge; trim the excess.
- The fabric slips. Run a gathering stitch around the edge and pull it tight before fitting.
When an alternative is the better choice
If the goal is a button that matches the garment, but the garment will be worn and washed often (shirts, trousers, everyday jackets, childrenswear), a solid button in the same shade usually lasts longer:
- Corozo matched to the fabric. Corozo dyes in a wide range of colours and keeps its natural grain: tone-on-tone, but with depth.
- Matte polyester buttons. The widest colour choice, with very good resistance to washing and ironing.
- Shell. For evening and formal clothing where you want a delicate lustre instead of fabric.
Fabric-covered buttons remain the best choice for occasion dresses, upholstery, decorative details and garments whose print should continue onto the button. For a detailed comparison of bridal button materials, see our buttons section.
FAQ
Can fabric-covered buttons go in the washing machine?
Yes, at a low temperature and in a laundry bag, but the edge wears over time. Metal blanks should be dried quickly.
How much fabric do I need for ten 19 mm buttons?
Around ten 38 mm circles: a piece about 20 × 10 cm is enough, with a little spare for centring the motif.
Can I use them on a coat?
Yes, in a larger size and with coating fabric, but the edge is the weak point. For an everyday coat, corozo is more practical.
If you are looking for buttons that match your fabric, browse our corozo buttons in 11 colours, polyester buttons and natural shell buttons. For a production order in an exact colour, send us a fabric swatch.
