Custom logo buttons are the most recognisable form of branding after the label – but they are rarely the only metal detail on a garment. A single jacket can carry buttons, snap fasteners, drawcord eyelets, rivets, cord ends and a zipper puller. If each part comes from a different supplier, in a different finish, with a different version of the logo, the result looks accidental. This article does not go deep into engraving techniques. Instead it looks at the bigger picture: which parts can carry a logo at all, which technique suits each one, and how to build a consistent family of hardware that sits in the same style as your labels.
Which parts can carry a logo
| Part | Where the logo goes | Suitable techniques | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metal shank button | Button face | Casting, stamping, enamel | The classic for coats and blazers |
| 2- or 4-hole button | Face, between the holes or around the rim | Laser, stamping, casting | The logo must avoid the holes |
| 4-part snap fastener | The cap (the visible top) | Stamped relief, laser | Open ring caps leave no room for a logo |
| Sew-on snap | Usually not visible | Rarely branded | Hidden under the flap |
| Jeans tack button | The cap | Stamped relief, casting | Text around the rim also works |
| Rivet | The cap | Stamped relief | Small area – a simple mark or monogram only |
| Eyelet | The flange, on larger sizes | Stamped relief | No room on small eyelets |
| Zipper puller | The pull tab | Casting, enamel, laser | Must be compatible with the zipper gauge |
| Cord end, buckle | The body of the part | Casting, laser | Good for sportswear |
For more on the individual techniques – embossed, debossed, laser and enamel – see our other button articles.
Which technique for which part: the short version
- Casting (usually zinc alloy). The most detail and a deep relief, but it needs a mould and a larger quantity. Suits shank buttons, pullers and buckles.
- Stamping (usually brass). An embossed or debossed logo on thin metal. The standard for snaps, jeans buttons and rivets.
- Laser engraving. No mould, done on a finished part. The lowest set-up, so it suits small quantities and testing a design.
- Enamel. Adds colour into the relief so the logo can appear in your brand colour. Used on buttons and pullers with a larger surface.
How to build a consistent hardware family
1. One finish for the whole garment
Choose one finish – gunmetal, antique brass or matt nickel, say – and use it for every metal part: buttons, snaps, rivets, eyelets, pullers. Different suppliers and base metals give slightly different tones even under the same finish name, so ask for samples of every part and compare them side by side.
2. Two versions of the logo
A full logo with lettering rarely fits on an 8 mm rivet or a 12.5 mm snap cap. Prepare two versions: the full logo for larger parts (20–25 mm buttons, pullers, a metal label) and a short mark or monogram for small ones (rivets, snaps under 15 mm, eyelets). As a guide, lines finer than about 0.3 mm are hard to reproduce by stamping.
3. A hierarchy: what gets branded and what does not
Not everything needs a logo. Good-looking hardware usually follows one rule: the logo goes where the eye stops – the main button, the jeans button, the puller on the main zipper. Everything else wears the same finish but is plain or carries a simple mark. The brand stays recognisable without the garment looking overloaded, and the budget stays sensible.
4. Matching the labels
Metal details should talk to the labels. If your main label is black jacquard with white lettering, gunmetal or black nickel sits naturally next to it; if it is cream satin with a gold print, think antique brass or light gold. Use the same logo version on the label and on the metal parts, with the same proportions.
5. Compliance and safety
Buttons, rivets and snaps are in prolonged contact with skin, so they fall under the REACH nickel release restriction (Annex XVII, entry 27): no more than 0.5 µg/cm² per week. Ask your supplier to confirm parts are nickel-free or meet the limit. For childrenswear, think about attachment strength as well.
A quick decision guide
- Under 300 pieces per style? → stock metal parts in your chosen finish without a logo, plus the logo on a label (woven, printed or an E-series metal label with a laser-engraved logo).
- Several thousand pieces and a logo you will use for years? → a die or mould for the key parts; the set-up cost is spread out.
- Want colour in the logo? → enamel on a cast button or puller.
- Making denim? → a branded jeans button with stock rivets in the same finish.
Tip: before paying for a mould, print your logo at real size, compare it with stock snap fasteners or rivets and ask for a sample. The mould is a one-time cost, and the relief stays crisp and durable.
Frequently asked questions
Can one logo go on buttons of different sizes?
Yes, but each size usually needs its own die or mould. The logo proportions should be adjusted so it looks equally weighted at 15 mm and at 25 mm.
How long does production take?
With a die or mould, lead time covers making the tool, sampling, approval and bulk. The mould is a one-off, so repeat orders are faster. The exact time depends on quantity and finish, so ask when you send your request.
Can I mix parts from different suppliers?
You can, but you risk a difference in finish tone. If you must, approve all the parts together, side by side.
Branded hardware from Bul-tex
Bul-tex offers metal buttons, snap fasteners, rivets, jeans buttons and eyelets in coordinated finishes, plus labels to match them. We make the logo on metal parts with a mould – raised or recessed. For buttons and hardware carrying your logo, get in touch and we will talk through which parts to brand and which technique makes sense for your quantity.
