Leather buttons are one of the most recognisable details in classic menswear — the woven football button on a tweed jacket, the knot button on a chunky cardigan, the leather-covered button on a shooting jacket. This article works as a style glossary: what each type is called, how it is built, which garments it belongs on, and what its practical limits are. We finish with modern alternatives for brands that want the same feel with easier care or without animal materials. A note up front: Bul-tex does not sell leather buttons — the topic is here as context for choosing a suitable substitute.
A glossary of leather buttons
Woven football button
A domed button covered with thin leather strips woven in a basket or criss-cross pattern that recalls the panels of an old leather football — hence the name. It has a shank on the back and usually measures 18–28 mm. The classic choice for tweed jackets, shooting jackets and heavy cardigans.
Knot button
A hand-woven knot of leather cord forming a small ball, with a loop at the back for sewing. Knot buttons are dense and chunky, so they are used on outerwear and heavy knits — tweed jackets, coats, thick cardigans.
Leather-covered button
A metal or plastic base wrapped in leather. The surface can be smooth or embossed, and the back is closed with a metal cap and shank. Found on jackets, bags and accessories.
Leather-look buttons
Plastic buttons cast or pressed to imitate the weave of a football button. They are light, inexpensive and washable, which is why they are popular on knitwear.
Polyester buttons PPB 0033
Luxury metal buttons ME9005 Sun shape – 28 mm / 39 mm
Metal buttons E-2075 Nickel – Oval shank buttons, Luxury designWhy they all have shanks
Leather buttons almost always use a shank rather than holes. The reason is structural: a woven or covered top has nowhere to put holes, and the shank lifts the button above the cloth so it can pass through the buttonhole of a thick fabric or knit without puckering it. That is a real advantage on tweed and heavy wool, where the two layers at the buttonhole can easily exceed 4–5 mm.
Which style for which garment
| Garment | Traditional choice | Suggested size |
|---|---|---|
| Tweed jacket | Woven football button | 20–22 mm front, 15 mm cuff |
| Heavy cardigan | Knot or football | 18–25 mm |
| Wool coat | Knot or covered | 25–30 mm |
| Shooting / country jacket | Covered or football | 22–25 mm |
| Children's knitwear | Leather-look (light) | 15–18 mm |
The practical limits of real leather
- Washing: leather dislikes water. After a wash the weave can shrink, loosen or fade.
- Dry cleaning: solvents strip oils from the leather, leaving it stiff and brittle.
- Colour: dark leather can bleed dye onto pale cloth when wet.
- Wear: the weave on the edges of football buttons rubs away over time — charming on tweed, less so on modern city clothing.
- Ethics: more and more brands build collections free of animal materials and look for substitutes.
Modern alternatives that give the same effect
If you want the warm, country character of leather buttons with easier upkeep, here is what works in practice:
- Coconut buttons. The deep brown tone and natural texture of coconut buttons pair beautifully with tweed, corduroy and rough wool. They cope with washing better than leather and are light.
- Dark corozo. Brown and dark corozo buttons bring depth and warmth to jackets and cardigans without looking plasticky.
- Metal shank buttons. Antique brass or old silver on tweed is another classic country look — see our coat buttons, which include shank models.
- Brown melange polyester buttons. Matt melange designs have an organic look, wash without trouble and are the most economical option for production runs.
- Wooden buttons. For children's knits and linen, wooden buttons add natural warmth at minimal weight.
Tip: on a tweed jacket, pair dark coconut or corozo buttons with thread matched to the darkest yarn in the cloth. The button then blends into the pattern, just as woven leather does.
Caring for the alternatives
The big advantage of the substitutes is that they handle normal tweed and wool care far better than leather. Coconut and corozo buttons cope with a delicate 30 °C wash and careful ironing from the reverse, but they don't like long soaking or direct contact with a hot soleplate. Metal shank buttons don't mind water, though a nickel-free finish is sensible if the garment is worn close to the skin. Polyester is the least fussy of all: it takes washing, dry cleaning and steam. When dry cleaning jackets with natural buttons, it is still wise to protect or remove them, just as you would with leather.
How to sew a shank button onto thick fabric
- Use strong polyester thread, doubled.
- Position the shank at right angles to the buttonhole so the button doesn't twist sideways.
- Make 6–8 stitches through the shank and the cloth.
- On very thick garments, add an extra 1–2 mm thread shank beneath the button's own shank.
- Finish with several knots on the reverse, and on coats add a backing button or a small patch of fabric for reinforcement.
Frequently asked questions
Why do tweed jackets have leather buttons?
Tweed was traditionally outdoor clothing for shooting and country walks. Leather is tough, doesn't shatter on impact and suits the earthy tones of the cloth.
Is there a vegan alternative to leather buttons?
Yes — coconut, corozo, wood and polyester buttons all give a similar warm effect without animal materials.
Can leather buttons be washed?
Best not. If the garment is washable, remove the buttons or choose a material that tolerates water.
More ideas for choosing buttons are in our button advice section. If you are sourcing buttons for a tweed or knitwear collection, contact us and we'll send suggestions by colour and size.
