Lingerie elastic types make up a whole family of narrow bands, and each has a precise job on a bra or a pair of knickers. Picot, plush-back, strap elastic, underband, scalloped: these terms fill supplier catalogues and tech packs, but they're rarely explained. This glossary sorts out the main types, shows where each one goes and explains how widths are specified, so you can order exactly what you need. We've covered men's underwear and briefs elsewhere; here the focus is on bras and fine women's lingerie.
Map: which elastic goes where
| Position | Elastic type | Typical width |
|---|---|---|
| Bra straps | Strap elastic | 10–20 mm, most often 12–15 mm |
| Underband (below the cups) | Underband elastic, plush-back | 15–30 mm |
| Top edge of cup, wings | Picot elastic | 6–12 mm |
| Panty waist and legs | Picot or scalloped elastic, fold-over elastic | 6–15 mm |
| Decorative edges | Scalloped elastic, stretch lace | 10–30 mm |
Plastic bra sliders and rings
Metal bra sliders and rings
White knitted elastic band PEL 1001, 25 m rollThe glossary
Picot-edge elastic
A narrow knitted elastic with decorative loops (picots) along one or both edges. It is sewn with the loops facing out, so after turning they sit as a fine, lace-like border. It's used on cup top edges, bra wings, panty waists and legs, and on children's necklines. The smooth side is often lightly brushed so it's soft against the skin.
Plush-back
Not a separate type but a feature: the reverse side is brushed, soft and velvety. Any elastic that sits directly on the skin under tension, such as the underband, straps and wings, benefits from a plush back. It reduces friction and marks on the skin.
Strap elastic
A firmer elastic with a smooth, often satin-look face, a plush back and sometimes picot loops. Typical width is around 15 mm, with 18–20 mm or more for larger cup sizes to spread the weight. It runs through the slider and ring, so its thickness has to suit their openings.
Underband elastic
The hardest-working elastic on a bra: it provides most of the support, often quoted as around 80%. It's 15–30 mm wide, has higher power and nearly always a plush back. It often has a textured face or an inner silicone stripe so it doesn't ride up.
Scalloped elastic
Elastic with a wavy edge that imitates lace. Used for decorative edges on panties, bodysuits and lingerie without separate lace. Width is measured at the widest point of the scallop.
Stretch lace trim
Lace with elastane woven in. It works as both elastic and decoration on legs, waists and necklines.
Fold-over elastic
Elastic with a centre fold line that wraps around the fabric edge. Used for clean bound edges on panties and lingerie with no seams inside.
Narrow elastic cord
A round or near-round elastic cord of 1–3 mm, used in casings on very fine lingerie and nightwear, where it is discreet and soft.
Clear elastic
A thin transparent polyurethane tape sewn into seams to stabilise them without visible elastic, typically on shoulder seams and knit necklines.
How widths are specified
Lingerie elastic widths are given in millimetres, not centimetres; the difference between 12 and 15 mm is obvious on a strap. With picot elastic, check whether the width includes the loops. Some suppliers quote the full width, others only the body of the elastic. When ordering, also specify:
- Power and stretch: how far it stretches (for example to 120–150%) and at what force.
- Face and back: smooth, satin-look, plush, matte.
- Colour: shade matters in lingerie; ask for a lab dip to match the lace exactly.
- Composition: spandex or rubber. For lingerie we recommend spandex.
Tip: all the elastics on a bra should be the same shade, or the difference will show under a light top. Order them together, and from one batch if possible.
Common ordering mistakes
- Ordering from a photo only. In a photo, picot and scalloped elastic look alike, and power doesn't show at all. Always ask for a sample of at least 1 m.
- The same power everywhere. Cup-edge elastic should be soft or it digs in; the underband should be strong. One band for both jobs gives a poor result.
- Ignoring the slider opening. 15 mm strap elastic won't pass through a 12 mm slider. Order sliders and rings together with the elastic.
- Too little quantity. A single bra uses roughly 1.5–2 m of assorted elastics. Add 5–10% for waste and samples.
What we stock and what's custom
Bul-tex manufactures and supplies flat woven and knitted elastics from 1 to 10 cm wide, in white, black and colours. For lingerie that covers the basics, such as soft 1–1.5 cm knitted elastic for waist casings and woven elastic for firmer bands. We don't currently stock specialised bra elastics (picot, plush-back strap elastic, scalloped or fold-over elastic). If you need them for a production run, contact us through our contact page with width, colour and quantity, and we'll look at custom options.
For bra hardware, we offer metal and plastic sliders and rings. All elastics in stock are in our elastics collection, and for men's underwear, swimwear and activewear elastics see our other elastic guides.
FAQ
Can I use plain knitted elastic instead of picot?
For a panty waist in a casing, yes. For a visible edge without a casing, picot elastic gives a cleaner, softer finish.
How wide should underband elastic be?
For small cups 15–20 mm is enough; for larger sizes use 25–30 mm, because the band carries most of the weight.
Why do bra straps lose their stretch?
Usually the elastic is too narrow for the size, or it's rubber-based and has lost power to sweat and washing. A wider spandex elastic fixes it.
