Metal labels for bags are the clearest signature a leather goods brand has: a small plate on the flap or front panel that reads from metres away and lasts for years. Unlike clothing, a bag is never washed, but its label takes friction, knocks, weight and constant flexing of the leather. That makes the fixing method, the position and the moment you fit it during construction more important than the design itself. This article is for makers of handbags, wallets, belts and small leather goods.
Placement by bag type
| Item | Typical position | Rough size | Preferred fixing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tote | Front panel, centred, 5–8 cm below the top edge | 30–50 x 8–15 mm | Rivets or screws |
| Crossbody with flap | Centre of the flap, near the lower edge | 20–35 x 5–10 mm | Prongs with a backing plate |
| Backpack | Top flap or front pocket | 30–50 x 8–15 mm | Rivets |
| Clutch or evening bag | Lower front corner or inside | 15–25 x 4–8 mm | Prongs, or adhesive plus prongs |
| Wallet, card holder | Outer corner or inner panel | 15–20 x 4–5 mm | Prongs |
| Belt | On the strap next to the buckle or on the keeper | 20–30 x 5–8 mm | Rivets or screws |
A good rule: the label should take up no more than about one sixth of the width of the panel it sits on. A larger plate on a small bag starts to look like jewellery rather than a signature.
Metal tags E-677 Gun Metal 3 x 0.8 cm – For laser branding
Metal labels E-2222 Nickel 3 x 0.5 cm – With rounded edges, for laser branding
Metal tags E-2302 Gun Metal 1.5 x 1 x 1 cm – Triangular 3D shape, for laser brandingFixing methods for leather
Prongs
Two or four metal legs pass through the leather and fold over a backing plate on the inside. The front stays completely clean. They suit flaps, wallets and clutches, but need a lining to cover the folded legs – otherwise they snag whatever is inside the bag.
Screws (Chicago screws)
The label has threaded posts and small screws go in from the inside. The advantage is that the label can be removed, for leather repair or replacement. A drop of thread-locker stops the screws working loose.
Rivets
The strongest option for backpacks, belts and bags carried heavily loaded. The rivet locks the label permanently, and its cap can be on show and match the rest of the hardware.
Sewing through holes
Less common on leather, but good on canvas or denim bags. Stitch with waxed thread or a strong polyester thread.
Reinforcing from the inside
Leather stretches, and over time the holes around prongs or rivets widen. That is why there is almost always something behind the label:
- A metal backing plate – spreads the load of the prongs.
- A piece of firm leather or leatherboard (1–2 mm) – gives soft leather a base.
- Fusible interfacing – for textile and thin leather bags.
- A washer under the rivet – on the inside, so the leather does not tear under strain.
Tip: with soft, supple leathers such as nappa or lambskin, reinforcement is essential. Without it the plate starts to tilt within a few weeks of use.
When to fit the label during construction
The most common workshop mistake is leaving the label until last. Fit it while the piece is still flat:
- Cut the front panel or flap.
- Mark the position with a template – the same one for every piece.
- Punch the holes with a punch of the exact diameter.
- Place the reinforcement and fit the label.
- Only then sew in the lining and assemble the bag.
That way prongs and rivets hide under the lining and you have full access from both sides. On a finished bag, fitting a label often means unpicking the lining.
Matching the rest of the hardware
The label is part of a set: buckles, rings, sliders, rivets, magnetic snaps and zip pullers. They should share one finish – nickel with nickel, gunmetal with gunmetal, light gold with light gold. Watch the texture as well: a polished label next to a matt buckle looks like a mistake. It helps to choose the buckles and rings first and then the label in the same finish. Our buckles and rivets collections include styles in nickel, gunmetal and light gold.
Common problems and fixes
- The label tilts – there is no reinforcement, or the prongs are only half folded. Add a backing and press the prongs flat with flat-jaw pliers.
- The leather tears around a rivet – the hole is too big or there is no washer. Use a punch matching the post diameter and a washer inside.
- The plating gets scratched while fitting – put a scrap of leather or cloth between the tool and the label.
- Half the labels end up crooked – work from a single card or plastic template with the holes cut out, not by eye.
Brass or zinc alloy?
For leather goods, brass is favoured in premium products: it is heavier, ages gracefully and lasts for decades. Zinc alloy is lighter and cheaper, allows complex shapes and is the standard for most fashion bags. Whatever the base metal, ask for low nickel release – bags are handled every day.
Small labels for laser branding
In our labels collection Bul-tex offers E-series metal labels – for example 3 x 0.8 cm, 3 x 0.5 cm and 2 x 0.4 cm, in nickel and gunmetal, plus a triangular 3D shape – designed for laser engraving a logo. The minimum order is 100 pieces, which suits small workshops. Check the fixing on the product page and make sure it suits your item.
FAQ
Can a metal label go on a bag that is already sewn?
Yes, if you can reach the inside – through a pocket or an opened lining seam. Otherwise choose a screw or rivet style that can be fitted from both sides.
How big should a wallet label be?
Usually 15–20 mm long. Anything larger is felt in the pocket and scratches.
Do you make custom metal labels?
For metal labels in your own shape and with your logo, get in touch with the size, finish and product. More on materials and finishes is in the Accessories section of our blog.
