Braided elastic is the third main type of flat elastic alongside woven and knitted, and it is the one most often bought by mistake. It looks cheap and handy and is sold at every haberdashery counter, but it behaves very differently: it narrows when stretched, and if you stitch through it, it loses some of its strength. Know these two quirks and braided elastic is excellent in the right places. Ignore them and you end up with a waistband that rolls or a cuff that goes slack within a month. This article is all about braided elastic: what it is, how to recognise it and when to choose something else.
What braided elastic is
Braided elastic is made on braiding machines that interlace yarns diagonally, rather like a plait but with many more strands at once. Bobbins of polyester or cotton yarn travel around each other in a circular path, while lengthwise elastic threads of rubber or spandex run between them. The result is a band with distinctive lengthwise ridges visible on both sides.
We have covered the braiding process itself in more detail in our article on how elastic is made. Here we focus on what that structure means for sewing and wearing.
White knitted elastic band PEL 1001, 25 m roll
Black knitted elastic band PEL 1002, 25 m roll
Beige knitted elastic band PEL 1004, 25 m rollWhy braided elastic narrows when stretched
The diagonal yarns behave like a Chinese finger trap. When you pull the elastic lengthwise, the angle between the yarns closes, they line up more with the direction of pull, and the band gets narrower. A 10 mm band can narrow visibly at full stretch. Woven elastic, by contrast, has yarns at right angles and keeps its width, while knitted elastic sits in between: it narrows slightly but stays soft and flat.
The practical consequence: inside a casing the narrowing doesn't matter, because the elastic floats freely. Sewn directly to fabric, however, it pulls the seam unevenly, ripples and can flip over.
Why you shouldn't sew through braided elastic
The elastic threads in braided elastic sit loosely between the diagonal yarns. When a needle passes through, it pierces or cuts them, and each puncture removes a little of the band's strength. Zigzag stitching across the full width takes away a noticeable share of its recovery. That is why manufacturers recommend braided elastic mainly for casings, where you only stitch the ends together, not through the length.
Braided vs knitted vs woven elastic
| Property | Braided | Knitted | Woven |
|---|---|---|---|
| Structure | Diagonal interlacing, lengthwise ridges | Loops, smooth surface | Warp and weft at right angles |
| Width when stretched | Narrows visibly | Narrows slightly | Keeps its width |
| Sewing through it | Not recommended | Yes, holds its shape | Yes |
| Softness | Medium | High | Firmer |
| Typical width | Narrow, usually up to about 2 cm | 1–10 cm | 1–10 cm and wider |
| Best place | Sleeve casings, necklines, hair ties | Underwear, kidswear, light waists | Waistbands, heavy fabrics, wide waists |
When braided elastic is the right call
- Sleeve and cuff casings. Narrow braided elastic of 6–10 mm threads through easily and gives a soft gather.
- Peasant-style necklines. The casing hides the elastic and the narrowing never shows.
- Light waists on pyjamas and skirts in thin fabrics. Where the load is low and the waist has a casing.
- Scrunchies, masks and drawstring bags. Wherever you need a cheap, light elastic that isn't stitched along its length.
When to choose a different elastic
- When you stitch directly onto the elastic, as on underwear, swimwear and knit edges, choose knitted elastic, which tolerates the needle.
- When a waistband must lie flat and not roll, as on denim, sports waists and workwear trousers, woven elastic from 2.5 to 5 cm is the right choice.
- When you need more than 2 cm of width. Braided bands that wide are rare and unstable.
- When the garment is washed often at high temperatures. Fibre content matters most here, but a firm woven structure lasts longer.
Quick test at the counter: take 10 cm of the elastic and stretch it. If it clearly thins and the ridges line up lengthwise, it's braided. If it keeps its width and looks like woven fabric, it's woven. If it's soft and smooth and narrows a little, it's knitted.
Tips for braided elastic in a casing
- Make the casing 2–3 mm wider than the elastic so it moves freely.
- Cut the elastic 10–15% shorter than the edge it gathers. Don't overdo it with braided elastic, because constant heavy tension wears it out faster.
- Overlap the ends by 1.5–2 cm and stitch a box or zigzag. This is the only place you sew through it.
- Close the casing and spread the gathers evenly before stitching in the ditch at side seams, if needed.
What Bul-tex offers
Bul-tex manufactures and supplies flat woven and knitted elastics from 1 to 10 cm wide, in white, black and colours, on 25 m rolls. We don't currently stock braided elastic. For casings and lightweight garments we recommend the soft PEL knitted elastic, which is stable and takes stitching well, and for waistbands the WE woven elastic in widths from 1 to 10 cm. If you need a specific elastic for a production run, get in touch through our contact page. You'll find other sewing essentials in our accessories collection.
FAQ
Is braided elastic cheaper?
Usually, yes, because it is narrow and quick to produce. But when it's used in the wrong place and the garment needs repairing, the saving disappears.
Can I attach braided elastic with an overlocker?
Technically yes, but the needles will pierce the elastic threads. If you want to sew onto the elastic, knitted is the better choice.
Why does the elastic roll in the casing?
Braided elastic with rounded ridges flips easily. Anchor it with a vertical stitch through the casing at the side seams, or switch to flat woven elastic.
