You can replace a jeans button with no sewing at all. Replacing it sounds like a tailor's job, but the classic no-sew tack button is fitted without needle or thread: all you need is a new button, a hard surface and a hammer. If the button on your favourite jeans has fallen off, worked loose or started spinning, this guide takes you through the whole job, from removing the old button to the single clean strike that does not bend the tack.
How a tack button works
A jeans button has two parts:
- The cap: the face you see from the outside, with a hollow socket inside it.
- The tack: a metal base with a spike that goes in from the inside of the waistband, passes through the fabric and is driven into the cap.
When struck, the tip of the tack spreads inside the cap and the two parts lock permanently. That is why you always use a new button when replacing one: the old tack cannot be reused.
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Jeans buttons 3114080 – 18 mm Gun Metal
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- a new jeans button (cap and tack);
- a hammer, and heavier is better than lighter, because you want one or two confident blows, not lots of weak ones;
- a hard, flat base such as a metal anvil, a granite slab or a concrete floor. A chipboard or wooden table absorbs the blow and the tack bends;
- side cutters or small pliers;
- an awl or hole punch (if the hole is torn);
- a scrap of thick fabric or leather to protect the button face.
Choosing the size
The most common size is 17 mm, used on most classic jeans. You will also find 14 mm (women's and kids' styles, skirts) and 20 mm (heavier styles and jackets). Measure the old button or the buttonhole: the button should be 1–2 mm smaller than the buttonhole. If the buttonhole is 19 mm, choose 17 mm; if it is 21–22 mm, you can go to 20 mm.
Tack length matters too. A jeans waistband is multi-layered: heavy denim needs a longer tack, thin stretch denim a shorter one. A tack that is too long for thin fabric will bend; one that is too short will not reach the cap.
Step by step
1. Remove the old button
If the button is still attached but spinning, grip the cap with pliers and twist until the tack separates. Alternatively, cut through the tack's neck from the inside with side cutters, taking care not to catch the fabric. If the button has already fallen off, pull the remains of the tack out from the inside.
2. Check the hole
If the hole has stretched or torn, a new button will not hold. Fix it with a small patch of dense fabric or fusible interfacing on the inside, then make a new hole with an awl 2–3 mm away from the old one. The position must line up with the buttonhole: fasten the jeans and mark the centre of the buttonhole on the waistband with chalk.
3. Pierce the fabric
Make a small hole with the awl exactly on your mark. Do not cut with scissors: cut fabric tears, whereas a pierced hole just parts the yarns, which then grip the tack.
4. Insert the tack
From the inside of the waistband, push the tack through the hole so the spike comes out on the right side.
5. Position the cap
Turn the jeans face down. Place the cap face down on the hard base, on top of the protective scrap. Guide the spike into the exact centre of the cap's socket.
6. Strike
Hold the hammer vertically above the tack and deliver one or two firm, straight blows. Do not strike at an angle and do not tap ten times; that is how tacks bend and come out sideways.
7. Check
Try to turn the cap. If it does not move and sits snug against the fabric, you are done. Fasten and unfasten a few times.
Tip: if you want to practise first, buy one spare button and set it on a scrap of old denim. You will get a feel for how hard to hit.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Tack bends | Soft base, angled blow or tack too long for the fabric | Hard base, straight blow, shorter tack |
| Button spins | Weak blow or stretched hole | Strike again; patch and new hole |
| Cap is scratched | No protection between cap and base | Fabric or leather pad |
| Button slips out of the buttonhole | Button too small | Choose 1–2 mm under the buttonhole length |
| Tack does not reach the cap | Thick waistband, short tack | Button with a longer tack |
When to use a press instead of a hammer
A hammer is perfectly adequate for one or two buttons at home. If you replace buttons regularly, as an alterations studio, a small brand or a factory, a hand or bench press with the right dies is the better choice. A press centres the tack, applies the same force every time and does not damage the finish. Our accessories section includes button attaching machines.
FAQ
Can I just sew on an ordinary button?
You can, but an ordinary button will not stand up to waistband stress and looks out of place on denim. A tack button is designed for exactly that spot.
Can I reuse the old cap with a new tack?
Usually not. The inside of the cap deforms on first setting and a second tack will not lock reliably.
Will it come off in the wash?
A properly set button survives hundreds of washes. If one works loose, the cause is almost always the fitting, not the laundry.
Where to get a button
Our jeans buttons collection has 17 and 18 mm models, including nickel-free versions for sensitive skin. If you want to reinforce the pockets at the same time, take a look at our metal rivets. Read more about button types in our button articles. We ship with DHL Express across the EU, and for wholesale orders contact us.
