How to sew a button onto a coat so it lasts all season

Coat buttons are subject to the greatest amount of stress – due to the thick fabric, frequent buttoning, and the weight of the garment itself. That is why they are sewn slightly differently than shirt buttons. Here is how to do it correctly.

What button size is suitable for a coat

For coats, buttons with a diameter of 22 to 34 mm (36L–54L) are most commonly used. The thicker the fabric and the larger the coat, the larger the button can be. For wool and cashmere coats, coconut buttons, corozo buttons, and horn-imitation polyester buttons are classic choices.

Steps

  1. Use a strong thread – reinforced polyester or silk thread, doubled over.
  2. Stay button. On the inside of the coat, place a small flat button (10–15 mm) opposite the main one. Sew through both simultaneously – this way, the stress does not tear the fabric.
  3. Large shank. Place a toothpick or a thick needle between the button and the fabric – for a coat, the shank should be 3–5 mm, corresponding to the thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole.
  4. 6–8 passes through each pair of holes.
  5. Wrap the shank tightly with the thread 6–8 times and secure it with a few stitches.
  6. Lock the stitch on the inside with 3 stitches in place.

Shank buttons on a coat

Metal shank buttons do not require an artificial shank, but it is still good to use a stay button on the inside. Sew through the eyelet parallel to the edge of the coat.

Frequently asked questions

Why do coat buttons come off quickly?

The most common reason is the lack of a shank – the button is sewn tightly, and when buttoned, the thread rubs and snaps.

Is a stay button necessary?

For heavy wool coats and coats made of thin fabric – yes. It distributes the force and protects the fabric.