Nickel free buttons and trims are not just a marketing line; they are a compliance question. Jeans buttons, snap fasteners on a baby bodysuit, rivets, zips and metal labels are often in prolonged contact with skin. Nickel is one of the most common contact allergens in Europe, so the EU limits how much nickel such items may release. This article explains exactly what REACH requires, how testing works under EN 1811:2023, why "nickel-free" and "compliant" are not synonyms, and what to ask your trim supplier.
Why nickel is a problem
Nickel allergy is a form of contact dermatitis: in sensitised people, prolonged contact with metal that releases nickel causes redness, itching and eczema exactly where the metal touches. The classic example is a red patch on the stomach under a jeans button. Sweat speeds things up because it dissolves nickel from the metal surface. Once someone is sensitised, it usually lasts for life, so the regulation is about prevention – cutting exposure before an allergy develops. For brands, that means customer complaints and returns are a real business risk, not just a regulatory one.
Designer metal buttons 20-047183-22 Col 2521 – Nickel Free 22 mm
4-part snap fasteners AF-1 Col G050 – 15 mm Nickel Free
4-part snap fasteners 9665 – 12.5 mm Nickel FreeWhat REACH says
The restriction sits in Annex XVII, entry 27 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (the REACH text on EUR-Lex). For articles intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with skin, nickel release from the parts touching the skin must not exceed 0.5 µg/cm² per week. For clothing this covers:
- buttons, including jeans buttons;
- snap fasteners and eyelets;
- rivets;
- zips and sliders;
- metal labels, buckles and other metal parts that touch skin.
Coated items face an extra requirement: the limit must still be met after at least two years of normal use. In other words, a coating cannot simply hide the nickel for a while.
How testing works: EN 1811:2023
EN 1811 is the reference method for measuring nickel release. The item is immersed in artificial sweat at 30 °C for one week, and the amount of nickel released into the solution is measured relative to the contact area. The current version, EN 1811:2023, became effective on 20 December 2023 and is harmonised with REACH; it explicitly applies to clothing fasteners such as buttons and zip pullers.
For coated items, EN 1811 testing is preceded by a wear simulation under EN 12472, which mimics two years of use. Only then is nickel release measured.
Important: results are compared with the limit taking measurement uncertainty into account. An item measuring close to 0.5 µg/cm²/week may be judged differently by different labs, so ask for the full report, not just a "PASS".
Myths vs facts
Myth: "Nickel-free" automatically means REACH compliant.
Fact: "nickel-free" usually means the plating contains no intentionally added nickel. The base metal or process residues can still release nickel, and a nickel-free item with a poor or thin lacquer can fail the test.
Myth: If the plating contains nickel, the item is illegal.
Fact: the regulation restricts nickel release, not its presence. An item with a nickel intermediate layer under a sufficiently thick and dense top layer can be fully compliant if release stays below the limit.
Myth: Brass and stainless steel are always safe.
Fact: some brass alloys and steels contain nickel. Stainless steels often do, though release depends on the steel grade and surface. The test decides, not the name of the metal.
Myth: It only applies to kidswear.
Fact: the restriction applies to every item in prolonged skin contact, whatever the wearer's age. Kidswear and baby bodysuits are simply the highest-risk case and get the strictest checks from retailers.
Which trims carry the most risk
| Trim | Skin contact | Risk level |
|---|---|---|
| Jeans button (inside) | Direct, prolonged – stomach | High |
| Snaps on a baby bodysuit | Direct, prolonged | High |
| Metal buckle on a belt or swimsuit | Direct | High |
| Bra sliders and rings | Direct, prolonged | High |
| Rivet on a jeans pocket | Partial | Medium |
| Metal label outside a jacket | Rare | Low |
Note that the back of the trim is often what matters. On a jeans button, skin touches the inner shank and washer, not the logo face.
What to ask your trim supplier
- Is there an EN 1811:2023 test report (with EN 12472 for coated items) for this specific article and finish?
- Which lab issued it, and when?
- What is the base metal, and what are the plating layers?
- Is only the top layer nickel-free, or the whole item?
- Is a protective lacquer or e-coat used, and how thick is it?
- Is there data on other REACH-restricted substances (such as lead and cadmium), and an OEKO-TEX certificate for the trims if you make kidswear?
Keep the answers and reports on file. If a retailer or market surveillance authority asks for evidence, the responsibility lies with the brand placing the garment on the market.
Practical advice for brands
- For baby and kidswear, lingerie and swimwear, choose trims with an explicitly declared nickel-free finish and request documents.
- Do not mix suppliers on the same item without checking – the inner washer of a button may be a different material from the cap.
- When you change the finish (say from nickel to gunmetal), assume the test result may change too.
- Write a REACH compliance requirement into your trim specification or purchase order.
Nickel-free trims at Bul-tex
Our range includes trims with a declared Nickel Free finish – snap fasteners, metal buttons and metal buckles. You can also browse our eyelets and rivets. Bul-tex manufactures and supplies trims for brands – if you need specific information on the material and finish of an item, or an order to your specification, contact us.
