Zinc alloy vs brass labels is the first question most brands face when they move to metal branding, but aluminium and stainless steel deserve a place in the comparison too. The metal decides almost everything else: how fine your logo detail can be, how heavy the label feels on a light fabric, how it looks after a hundred washes and what each piece costs. This article compares the four, explains why the vast majority of metal clothing labels are cast in zinc alloy, and shows when brass or stainless is worth the extra money.
The four metals at a glance
| Property | Zinc alloy | Brass | Aluminium | Stainless steel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Manufacturing | Die casting | Stamping or casting | Stamping, anodising | Stamping, laser |
| Density (approx.) | 6.6–6.7 g/cm³ | 8.4–8.7 g/cm³ | 2.7 g/cm³ | 7.9 g/cm³ |
| 3D detail | Excellent | Good (more limited when stamped) | Limited | Limited |
| Corrosion | Depends on plating | Good, develops patina | Good when anodised | Excellent |
| Relative cost | Lowest | High | Medium | Medium to high |
| Typical use | Jeans, jackets, bags, sweatshirts | Luxury goods, leather goods | Lightweight and sportswear | Workwear, swim, outdoor |
Metal labels E-2296 Nickel 1.5 x 0.5 cm – Delicate design for laser branding
Metal tags E-677 Gun Metal 3 x 0.8 cm – For laser branding
Metal tags E-2298 Gun Metal 2 x 0.4 cm – With sharp edges, for laser brandingZinc alloy: the industry standard
Roughly 90% of metal labels for apparel are made from zinc alloy, often called zamak. There are two reasons. First, zinc melts at a relatively low temperature (around 380–390 °C) and is pressure-cast into steel moulds that reproduce 3D detail, bevels, textures and fine lettering. Second, label manufacturers report that the raw material is around 30–40% cheaper than brass and casts 25–30% faster.
The weak point of zinc alloy is its surface. On its own it dulls and oxidises, so it is almost always electroplated (gold, nickel, gunmetal, antique) and often lacquered. If the plating is thin, many washes and abrasion can wear through at the edges. The quality of the plating matters more than the base metal.
Tip: for zinc labels on jeans and workwear, ask for plating with an extra protective lacquer and a wash test sample before you approve bulk.
Brass: weight and graceful ageing
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It is heavier and harder, and has a warm golden colour even without plating. Over time brass develops a patina, darkening evenly, which on leather goods and denim is seen as a plus. Brass labels are usually stamped from 0.5–1 mm sheet, which makes them excellent for flat shapes with a raised logo but more limited for complex 3D forms.
When it is worth it: luxury collections, bags, belts and products where weight in the hand is part of the quality message. Indicative market prices suggest a stamped 0.8 mm brass label often costs at least twice as much as a cast zinc label of similar size.
Aluminium: light and colourful
Aluminium is almost three times lighter than zinc or brass. Anodising allows bright colours – blue, red, black – that last because the colour is part of the surface layer, not paint on top. Laser engraving on anodised aluminium produces a crisp, light-coloured logo.
Aluminium labels are less common in clothing because of higher tooling costs, extra edge finishing and limited 3D detail. They suit sportswear, lightweight fabrics and products where weight matters.
Stainless steel: for the toughest conditions
Stainless steel is almost immune to corrosion, including from sweat, seawater and chlorine. It needs no electroplating, so there is nothing to wear off. It is usually brushed or polished and branded with laser engraving or deep stamping. The downside is hardness: stamping needs more expensive tooling and complex shapes are difficult.
When it is worth it: workwear that goes through industrial laundering, swimwear and beach products, outdoor gear, and kidswear where you want to avoid any risk of worn plating.
How to choose: a quick decision tree
- Logo with 3D detail, bevels and fine lettering? → zinc alloy.
- Luxury product where weight is part of the experience? → brass.
- Thin fabric or weight-critical item? → aluminium.
- Industrial washing, seawater or chlorine exposure? → stainless steel.
- Tight budget and a medium run? → zinc alloy with good plating.
Thickness, weight and attachment
The metal also affects how the label sits on the garment. A cast zinc label is usually 1–2 mm thick and can have prongs on the back, sew holes or rivet posts cast straight into the mould. Stamped brass, aluminium and steel labels are thinner – 0.5–1 mm – and are most often sewn through pre-punched holes or fixed with rivets.
Think about weight relative to the fabric as well. A 40 × 15 mm zinc label at 1.5 mm thick weighs a few grams and is no problem at all on denim or heavy jersey, but on a thin shirt or dress it will pull the cloth. In those cases aluminium or a thin stamped label is the better option, and if you want heavy metal anyway, place it on a seam or a reinforced area.
Do not forget nickel
Whatever the metal, a label in prolonged contact with skin must meet the REACH nickel release limit of 0.5 µg/cm² per week. This matters especially for plated zinc and brass labels. Read more in our articles on manufacturing and standards.
Metal labels from Bul-tex
In our labels collection you will find ready-made metal labels in nickel and gunmetal finishes and a range of shapes – rectangles with rounded or sharp ends and a triangular 3D form – designed for laser branding with your logo. For matching metal hardware, browse our decorative rivets and metal buckles. If you need a label in a custom design and material (with a moulded relief logo), Bul-tex accepts orders from brands – get in touch.
