Metal label cost surprises many brands because it is made of two completely different parts: a one-off mould fee and a unit price. On a small run the mould can cost more than the labels themselves; on a large run it almost disappears from the maths. This article explains how the price is built, what minimum order quantities and lead times to expect, how reorders reuse the same mould, and walks through an illustrative example of the cost per garment at 200 versus 2,000 pieces.
The two parts of the price
1. The mould (tooling)
For a cast zinc alloy label, a steel mould is made with the shape and logo. For a stamped brass, aluminium or steel label, it is a stamping die. Either way it is a one-off cost paid on the first order. Published manufacturer figures put mould fees roughly in the 50 to 300 range (dollars or euros, as an indication), depending on size, shape complexity, number of cavities and whether the logo is three-dimensional.
The good news: the mould stays with the manufacturer and is reused for reorders. Some makers keep moulds for around two years after the last order – confirm this up front so you do not pay for a mould twice.
2. The unit price
It depends on:
- Material – zinc alloy is the most economical; brass and steel cost more.
- Size and weight – more metal means a higher price.
- Finish – standard nickel or gunmetal is cheaper than antique effects, two-tone plating or polished-plus-sandblasted combinations.
- Extra operations – enamel, epoxy dome.
- Attachment – holes, prongs or rivet posts.
- Quantity – a bigger run lowers the unit price thanks to more efficient set-up and batch plating.
Metal tags E-677 Gun Metal 3 x 0.8 cm – For laser branding
Metal tags E-2298 Gun Metal 2 x 0.4 cm – With sharp edges, for laser branding
Metal tags E-2299 Nickel 2 x 0.5 cm – Delicate design for laser brandingMinimum order quantities
MOQs for metal labels vary widely. Some makers accept 50–100 pieces, a typical minimum is around 100–300 pieces, and large factories may ask for several thousand per design and finish. The reason is plating: parts are plated in batches, and each bath has a minimum economic load.
Tip: if you have several garment styles, use one metal label in one finish across the whole collection. The combined run will lower your unit price more than any negotiation.
Lead times: from sample to delivery
- Drawing and approval – a technical drawing or 3D render usually takes a few days.
- Mould and samples – making the mould and the first samples typically takes one to three weeks.
- Bulk production – casting, finishing, plating and inspection usually take another two to four weeks, depending on quantity.
- Delivery – depends on origin; for shipments from outside the EU, add freight and customs clearance.
As a rule of thumb, for a first order with a new mould, plan at least four to six weeks before your collection goes into sewing. Reorders with an existing mould are faster because the first two steps drop away.
Illustrative example: label cost per garment
To show how the maths works, here is an example with illustrative, rounded figures – not a quote, just the logic. Assume a cast zinc label of 35 × 12 mm in gunmetal with sew holes.
| Item | 200 pcs | 2,000 pcs |
|---|---|---|
| Mould (one-off) | €150 | €150 |
| Mould per piece | €0.75 | €0.075 |
| Label per piece (illustrative) | €0.80 | €0.50 |
| Total per garment | about €1.55 | about €0.58 |
At 200 pieces, the mould is almost half the label cost. At 2,000 pieces it is under 15%, and the larger run also brings the unit price itself down. If a second order of 200 reuses the same mould, the cost per garment drops to around €0.80, because the mould is already paid for.
On top of this, add the time to sew or rivet the label on. For a four-hole label sewn by hand, that can cost a small atelier more than the metal itself.
A mould-free alternative: laser branding
If your run is small or your logo may still change, there is a faster and cheaper route: a ready-made metal label in a standard shape with a laser-engraved logo. There is no mould fee, no minimum for new tooling, and lead times are shorter. In our labels collection we offer metal labels in nickel and gunmetal designed for laser branding – rectangles with rounded or sharp ends and a triangular 3D shape.
Once your brand grows and runs become stable, you can move to your own mould with a three-dimensional logo.
FAQ
Do I own the mould once I have paid for it?
It depends on the agreement. Some makers keep it as your tooling; others treat it as theirs and the fee as a contribution to cost. Get ownership and storage time in writing.
Can one mould be used for different finishes?
Yes. The mould sets the shape and logo; the finish is applied after casting. Bear in mind each finish usually has its own minimum run because of plating.
Can I get a sample before bulk?
Almost always – samples come from the new mould. Approve the sample on a real garment, not just a photo, and check weight, edges and finish after washing.
How to bring the price down
- Simplify the shape – a rectangle or oval rather than a complex silhouette.
- Choose a standard finish and a single texture.
- Order for two seasons at once if the design is stable.
- Ask how long the mould is kept and whether you own it.
- Request quotes at several quantities, for example 300, 1,000 and 3,000 pieces.
Read more about materials and techniques in our labels section, and see matching rivets in the same finishes. Bul-tex manufactures and supplies trims for brands and accepts orders made to your design – for a quote based on your quantity, contact us. We ship across the EU with DHL Express.
