Can you wash wooden buttons? Yes, you can, as long as you avoid the four things that really damage natural materials: long soaking, high heat, bleach and aggressive spinning. Wood, coconut shell, corozo, mother of pearl, horn and bone all come from nature, and they react to water and heat very differently from plastic. This guide goes through the rules material by material, so you know which buttons can go in the machine, which need hand washing and when it is smarter to take them off altogether.
Why natural buttons behave differently in water
Polyester and urea buttons are a uniform, non-porous mass. Natural materials have pores, layers and fibres. Wood and coconut absorb moisture, swell and then dry unevenly, which is where warping and cracks come from. Horn is made of keratin (the same protein as your fingernails), which softens and delaminates after prolonged contact with water and detergent. Mother of pearl is layered calcium carbonate and dislikes acids and bleach, which dull its lustre. Corozo, the seed of the tagua palm, is the hardest and most stable of the group, though even dyed corozo can fade with frequent hot washes.
So the rule is not "never wash natural buttons". It is "never soak them, boil them or bleach them".
Washing rules by material
| Material | Max temperature | Machine wash | Soaking | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood | 30 °C | Delicate cycle, in a mesh bag | No | Swelling, warping, cracking |
| Coconut | 30–40 °C | Yes, low spin | No | Mould if drying is slow, blotchy fading |
| Corozo | 40 °C | Yes | Briefly | Colour fading with frequent hot cycles |
| Mother of pearl | 30 °C | Delicate cycle | No | Loss of lustre, chipping on impact |
| Horn | 30 °C or dry clean | Hand wash preferred | Never | Delamination and cracking |
| Bone | 30 °C | Delicate cycle | No | Yellowing, hairline cracks |
Wooden buttons
Wood tolerates a short wash but not a long stay in a wet drum. Wash at 30 °C on a delicate programme with a spin of 600–800 rpm, and take the garment out as soon as the cycle ends. Never dry it on a radiator or in a tumble dryer, because sudden heat splits the grain. Lacquered buttons have extra protection, but lacquer is not forever: matt, "thirsty" patches after years of washing tell you it is time for replacements. Browse our wooden buttons if you need spares.
Coconut buttons
Coconut shell is surprisingly tough and widely used on shirts, linen and knitwear. It also absorbs water, so the key is fast, complete drying: a garment left damp and folded can grow mould right around the buttons. Skip bleach and detergents with optical brighteners, which make the brown tone patchy. Coconut buttons are a great pick for clothes that get washed often.
Corozo buttons
Corozo is the most washable natural material. It handles a normal 40 °C wash and spin, which is why it turns up on shirts, trousers and workwear. With dark or saturated shades, wash the garment inside out to limit friction, which slowly dulls the surface.
Mother of pearl buttons
Genuine shell is hard but brittle on impact. The biggest danger in the machine is not the water but knocking against the drum and against zips on other clothes. Button the shirt up, turn it inside out and put it in a mesh laundry bag. Avoid vinegar or acidic softeners on the buttons.
Horn and bone
Never soak horn buttons in water or cleaning solutions. Garments with horn buttons, such as blazers, coats and cardigans, are usually dry-clean items. If you do hand wash, keep the buttons out of the water or remove them first.
Seven steps to a safe wash
- Read the care label. The ISO 3758 symbols give the maximum temperature for the fabric; if the buttons are more delicate than the cloth, follow the buttons.
- Do up every button. They won't swing loose against the drum and the buttonholes won't stretch.
- Turn the garment inside out. The face of each button stays protected from abrasion.
- Use a mesh bag for shirts and blouses with shell or wooden buttons.
- Choose a liquid detergent without bleach. Powders with whiteners and granules act like a mild abrasive.
- Lower the spin to 600–800 rpm for wood, shell and bone.
- Dry straight away, in the shade and in open air. Hang the garment so the buttons dry evenly.
Workroom tip: for expensive buttons, wrap each one in a small square of aluminium foil before washing, or use purpose-made button covers. Foil cushions impacts and limits detergent contact. For truly precious buttons, the safest method is to snip them off and sew them back on afterwards.
Ironing and dry cleaning
The iron is a bigger enemy than the washing machine. Never press a hot iron directly onto natural buttons: wood and horn crack, shell loses its sheen and lacquer softens. Iron around them, or press from the wrong side onto a thick towel so the buttons sink into it. When dry cleaning, tell the cleaner what the buttons are made of; some solvents don't suit lacquered wood or horn, and a good cleaner will cover or remove them.
When to remove buttons before washing
- Vintage or heirloom buttons you can't replace.
- When the garment needs a wash above 40 °C, such as white linen.
- Horn and bone buttons on anything that isn't dry cleaned.
- Before dyeing a garment, since dye baths and fixatives are hot and harsh.
If you find yourself re-sewing buttons often, consider shank buttons fixed with a small split ring or button pin on the inside, so they come off in seconds. You will find more on button types in our button articles.
FAQ
Can wooden buttons go in the washing machine?
Yes, at 30 °C on a delicate cycle with a low spin. What matters is that the garment doesn't sit wet in the drum and dries in open air, away from radiators.
Which natural buttons handle frequent washing best?
Corozo and coconut. That is why they are the usual choice for shirts, children's clothes and everyday wear. See the full range of natural buttons.
What should I do if a wooden button has cracked?
A cracked button can't be saved, because water will get in even more easily. Replace it with a new one of the same size; for larger production quantities, feel free to get in touch with us.
