Label fold types look like a technical footnote, but they decide three important things: where and how you sew the label, whether it irritates the skin, and how professional the garment looks. The same design can be perfect as an end-fold neck label and completely wrong as a flat label in the same spot. In this visual guide we cover all the main folds, where each one is sewn and what to watch for when you order.
Key terms
- Visible area: the part of the label you can see once it's sewn. This is what you design.
- Seam allowance: the part that goes into the seam or under the stitching, usually a few millimetres on each side.
- Unfolded size: the total length of the label before folding, which is larger than the visible area.
Tip: when ordering, always state whether a size is visible or unfolded. It's the most common source of surprises.
Woven label 4.5 cm x 3.4 cm - brand logo
Woven label 7.5 cm x 4 cm - print on fabric
Woven label 10 cm x 9 cm – folded, double-sided1. Flat label (straight cut)
What it looks like: a rectangle with no folds and sealed edges.
Where it's sewn: on all four sides onto the fabric, at the back neck, on the outside of a pocket, on caps and bags. It can also have an iron-on backing.
Pros: the whole area is visible and it's the simplest to produce. Cons: the cut edge is exposed and, on firmer labels, can irritate if sewn on an inner surface that touches the skin.
2. End fold
What it looks like: the left and right ends are folded under. There is also a top and bottom version.
Where it's sewn: along the two folded ends, typically inside the neck, on the back of a garment or on the outside of a pocket. Left/right suits landscape designs; top/bottom suits square and portrait ones.
Pros: folded ends are soft, won't fray and give a professional finish. Cons: you lose a few millimetres on each side to the fold.
3. Centre fold
What it looks like: the label is folded in half to form a loop with two sides.
Where it's sewn: the open ends go into a seam, at the neck, in the side seam or in a pocket seam. The brand goes on one side, size or care on the other.
Pros: two-sided information, with the cut edge hidden in the seam. Cons: the label hangs free and can flip over.
4. Mitre fold (hanger loop)
What it looks like: both ends are folded under at 45 degrees and the label forms a small loop.
Where it's sewn: into the neck or collar seam. The loop doubles as a hanger for the garment.
Pros: functional, a hanger and label in one, typical of jackets, coats and shirts. Cons: a more complex fold at a slightly higher cost.
5. Manhattan fold
What it looks like: a centre fold combined with an extra folded edge so the cut edges are tucked away.
Where it's sewn: into a seam, like a centre-fold label.
Pros: the soft edges of a centre fold with less bulk. Cons: less common and needs precise folding.
6. Book cover fold
What it looks like: both ends are folded in to meet each other, then the label is folded like the cover of a book.
Where it's sewn: over the edge of a cuff, hem or sleeve, so the label wraps around the edge.
Pros: a very clean look with all edges hidden. Cons: bulkier than a standard centre fold.
Summary table
| Fold | Sewing | Typical position | Two-sided |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat | All 4 sides | Neck, pocket, cap, bag | No |
| End fold | 2 folded ends | Neck, back, pocket | No |
| Centre fold | Open ends in a seam | Neck, side seam | Yes |
| Mitre | In the collar seam | Jackets, coats, shirts | No |
| Manhattan | In a seam | Neck, side seam | Yes |
| Book cover | Over an edge | Cuff, hem, sleeve | Yes |
Working out the unfolded size
If you want a visible area of 5 x 2 cm with a left/right end fold, the label is longer before folding, since the width of each fold, usually a few millimetres, is added at both ends. The simplest approach is to give the visible size and sewing position and let the maker calculate the rest.
How the fold affects your design
- Leave a margin. With an end fold, keep text out of the last few millimetres; they'll be hidden or end up under the stitching.
- Orientation. On a centre fold the second side is upside down relative to the first, so the artwork must be set up to read correctly on both sides once folded.
- Thickness. Every fold adds a layer. On light jersey, a dense label with several folds can be felt.
- Comfort. For an inside neck label, a fold that hides the cut edge is almost always the better choice.
Which fold for which garment
- T-shirt or sweatshirt: end fold or centre fold at the neck.
- Jacket or coat: mitre fold as a hanger loop, or an end fold.
- Shirt: mitre fold in the collar or an end fold.
- Jeans: a flat label outside, an end fold inside, or a metal label.
- Children's clothing: centre fold, so the label is soft and the cut edge is hidden.
- Caps and bags: a flat label sewn on all four sides, or a centre fold in a seam.
Folded labels from Bul-tex
In our labels collection you'll find woven labels in various folds, including folded, double-sided and buttonhole versions. If you also need buttons or ribbons for hanger loops, take a look at those too. Bul-tex manufactures labels to your design with the fold of your choice, so write to us with the size and sewing position. For more ideas, see our label articles.
