If you want to replace plastic buttons with horn, corozo or shell, you are onto one of the cheapest ways to make a garment look genuinely expensive. Most off-the-peg blazers, coats and cardigans arrive with glossy plastic buttons because they save the maker a few cents each. The eye spots them instantly: a colour that is too even, a greasy shine, a dull tap when you knock them. Swap them for natural buttons and the garment gains depth and character, for a fraction of the cost of buying something new. Here is how to get it right.
Why buttons change how quality is perceived
Buttons sit in the most visible spots on a garment: down the centre of the chest and on the cuffs. They are also the only hard detail on soft cloth, so they catch light differently from everything around them. Natural materials have an irregular structure. Corozo shows fine graining, horn has marbled swirls, and real mother of pearl has a play of colour that plastic simply cannot reproduce. Those small imperfections are what our brains associate with craft and quality. In tailoring circles, horn has long been the standard for bespoke suits, and shell the standard for top-tier shirts.
Dark grey corozo buttons CB5001 with 4 holes
Polyester buttons PPB 0033
Luxury metal buttons ME9005 Sun shape – 28 mm / 39 mmWhich garments benefit most
| Garment | Recommended material | Typical size | Buttons needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jacket front | Corozo, horn, metal (for a club blazer) | 32L (about 20 mm) | 1–3 |
| Jacket cuffs | Same material, smaller size | 24L (about 15 mm) | 6–8 (3–4 per sleeve) |
| Overcoat | Coconut, corozo, horn | 36–44L (about 23–28 mm) | 4–8 |
| Cardigan | Coconut, wood, corozo | 20–28L (about 13–18 mm) | 5–7 |
| Shirt | Mother of pearl | 16–18L (about 10–11.5 mm) | 7–12 |
Ligne (L) is the traditional unit for button diameter: 1 L is roughly 0.635 mm, so 40L is about 25 mm. If in doubt, just measure an existing button with a calliper or ruler.
Choosing the material
Corozo: the all-round upgrade
Corozo is cut from the seed of the tagua palm. It is harder than polyester, takes dye deep into the material and has a matt surface with fine natural grain. It is machine washable, so it suits cotton and linen jackets, trousers and shirts. Have a look at our corozo buttons; navy, brown, grey and black work especially well on suiting cloth.
Mother of pearl: for shirts and smart blouses
Real shell gives itself away three ways: it feels cold to the touch, it makes a sharp click when tapped lightly against a tooth, and its back is uneven and mottled. Plastic imitations feel warm, sound dull and look identical on both sides.
Coconut and wood: warm and relaxed
Coconut and wooden buttons suit tweed, wool coats, linen jackets and knitwear. They bring a crafted feel and are among the most affordable natural options.
Horn: the tailoring classic
Horn is the button of choice among tailoring enthusiasts for jackets and coats. It costs more and is more sensitive to water, so it belongs mainly on garments that get dry cleaned.
Metal: for the club blazer
A navy blazer with metal buttons is a classic of its own. For that look, browse our coat and jacket buttons, which include premium metal designs.
Matching rule: on dark cloth, pick a button one or two shades lighter or darker than the fabric rather than an exact match. A little contrast shows off the material instead of letting it disappear.
Step by step: swapping the buttons
- Count and measure. Note the number and diameter of the front and cuff buttons. Buy at least one spare of each size.
- Prepare your thread. Use a strong polyester sewing thread matching the cloth or the button. Cut 60–90 cm, double it and knot the ends.
- Remove the old buttons carefully. Snip the thread under the button with small scissors, keeping the blades off the fabric. Leave the old stitch marks; they show you the exact position.
- Start somewhere discreet. Practise on the bottom button or a cuff until you find your rhythm.
- Sew over a spacer. Lay a matchstick or a second needle across the button and stitch over it, leaving 2–3 mm of slack. Heavy coat cloth needs a little more.
- Make 3–4 passes through each pair of holes, in an X or parallel pattern, matching the original.
- Wrap the shank. Pull out the spacer, lift the button and wind the thread 6–10 times around the stitches beneath it. This strengthens the button and raises it off the cloth so it slips through the buttonhole easily.
- Secure on the inside. Bring the needle through to the back and tie off with 2–3 small knots.
Cuff buttons take no strain, so they need fewer stitches and barely any shank. On some jackets they are attached under the sleeve lining; work carefully from the outside or leave that part to a tailor.
Cost and time
A jacket needs around 3 large and 6–8 small buttons, a spool of thread and a needle. Even with natural buttons, the outlay is a small fraction of the price of a new garment. Sewing takes about an hour if you're new to it. A tailor will charge only for the labour if you bring your own buttons.
Common mistakes
- Going too big. The button should pass through the existing buttonhole with slight resistance; a larger one will stretch it.
- No shank. A button sewn flat puckers the fabric and tears off quickly.
- Mismatched shades front and cuff. Buy them from the same batch.
- Wrong thread colour. Light thread on dark cloth shows far more than you expect.
When the upgrade isn't worth it
New buttons improve the look, but they can't fix a poor cut. If the jacket is tight across the shoulders, the cloth has gone shiny with wear or the lining is torn, your money is better spent elsewhere. The biggest payoff comes on well-cut garments in good cloth that are let down only by cheap plastic buttons: wool coats, linen and cotton jackets, chunky cardigans. Check the buttonholes too. If they are frayed, a smart new button will only draw attention to them, so reinforce them with a few stitches first.
For more ideas on materials, see our button articles. If you're a brand or atelier looking for natural buttons in larger quantities, contact us for a quote.
